HOW ABOUT DESSERT AND A GOOD BOOK FOR THE HOLIDAYS?

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for dessert wines and thinking about which wine books I want to give or get for Christmas. In this posting, I share a few ideas for this year’s season. Americans love to drink, alcoholic beverages that is. But we have deeply conflicted attitudes about alcohol. This love/hate relationship is at the core of The Prohibition Hangover: Alcohol in America from Demon Rum to Cult Cabernet by Garrett Peck (Rutgers University Press, $27). Peck explores the contradictory history of alcohol in America – from the Temperance movement to Prohibition to the binge drinking present – placing it within the broader context of social, religious, political, health and economic concerns. He concludes this comprehensive, well-documented account applying the lessons of Prohibition to the variety of alcohol-related issues facing us yet today. These include thoughtful considerations on such remnants as control states, blue laws, arcane shipping laws, the obligation of parents to instill responsible drinking values, drunk driving, binge drinking, and balancing the health effects of alcohol with the health detriments of excessive drinking.

If you are a Bordeaux fan or just want to learn more about this most influential wine region, What Price Bordeaux? by Benjamin Lewin (Vendange Press, $35) is a must read. Lewin provides copious detail on Bordeaux’s history, geography and economics. He analyzes the enduring impact of the Classification of 1855 relative to “terroir,” the “branding” of chateau, the region’s class structure, and prices. Other topics covered include the influence of consultants and critics, changing wine styles, global warming, futures, corporate ownership and a thought provoking reclassification. This reclassification and its analysis of the the original classification is the most enlightening I have read (and there have been countless such attempts in recent decades). Commendably Lewin clearly loves Bordeaux but is willing to look at it with a clear eye and challenge assumptions and vested interests, all to the better for consumers.

And to drink while I read these fine books? I crave a little dessert wine, those naturally sweet wines balanced with refreshing acidity so the wine isn’t cloying. The best are viscous and luscious, yet elegant and. They combine the richness of intense fruit with the elegance from low alcohol. Note all prices are for half bottles unless otherwise stated. Late Harvest. Probably the most common type of dessert wine results from grapes left on the vine past normal harvest until they become super ripe, concentrating the sugars. The resulting wine is lush with, pure fruit. A unique example of this is the 2007 Camilo Castilla “Montecristo” Moscatel Blanco Dulce, from a selection of small grain muscat grapes from a 145 year-old estate.

Under certain conditions, botrytis cinerea (the “noble rot”) dehydrates the grapes, concentrates the sugars, and imparts its own honey, herbal and spice characteristics. German Auslese and French Sauternes are the most notable representatives of this style but fine versions also are available from California, like the 2006 J. Lohr White Riesling Arroyo Seco and 2006 Cambria Viognier Tepesquet Vineyard. And I found a fine value in the 2008 d’Arenberg “Stump Jump” Sticky Chardonnay from Australia in certain cases, producers may leave grapes to hang on the vine until they freeze, thus making “Eiswein” in Germany and “Icewine” in Canada. Current releases from Inniskillin, Canada’s original Icewine producer, include a 2006 Vidal Gold, 2007 Riesling, and 2007 Cabernet Franc. These are luxury wines at luxury prices but they certainly will make any special occasion unforgettable. Jackson-Triggs, another highly regarded Canadian producer, offers a fine value in the 2007 Proprietor’s Reserve Vidal. Rather than wait for Nature, some producers actually freeze the grapes themselves after harvest. One of the best is of this style is the unctuous 2008 Joseph Phelps “Eisrebe” made from the scheurebe grape.

Fortified Wine. “Port” from Portugal is very sweet, high alcohol (fortified with brandy), and bursting with red and black fruit flavors. Pre-aged Tawny Ports, like Dow’s, Graham’s or Warre’s “Ten Year Tawny” and “Twenty Year Tawny” are ethereal. While, not a Port but made in that style, Charbay Pomegranate Dessert Wine from 100% organically grown fruit and fortified with Pinot Noir Brandy is a delightful alternative. Arrested Development. Moscato d’Asti from Italy’s Piedmont is slightly effervescent wine made from the partially fermented juice of white muscat grapes. It is sweet but not too, delightfully aromatic, and delicate on the palate. As a bonus, its low alcohol (5-6%) makes the wine equally comfortable as an aperitif or a dessert wine. I found a recently tasted 2007 Saracco is a perfect example.

So, get yourself a copy of these books, grab a glass of dessert wine and enjoy the holiday season.

CALIFORNIA PINOT NOIR HITS ITS STRIDE


It was not all that long ago that most California Pinot Noir was just pleasant at best, while much of it didn’t even rise to that level. Thankfully, that is no longer true. With producers identifying more appropriate growing sites (mostly cooler climates), there are countless good to outstanding wines now available for consumers.

My biggest concern is that most Pinot Noir is pretty expensive, as you will see. Although I have resigned myself to this problem with Burgundy, these California Pinots are good in their own right and are (often significantly) less expensive. In the column, I’ve categorized my recommendations by the state’s main Pinot Noir regions and highlight the best values in bold.

Mendocino County is best known for fine Zinfandel and Gewurztraminer but in recent years especially the Anderson Valley has taken its place among the top sources of Pinot Noir.

2006 Goldeneye Anderson Valley ($55). This is the tenth vintage from this Duckhorn owned Pinot specialist and it continues a string of quality wines.

2007 Migration Anderson Valley ($34). This is the seventh vintage and a solid effort from the Goldeneye folks in a more immediately drinkable style.


Sonoma County contains arguably the most abundant sources for Pinot Noir in the state. Combined, the Russian River Valley, Sonoma Coast and western part of Carneros account for probably more outstanding Pinot Noir than anywhere else in the state.

Russian River Valley

2007 Pali Bluffs ($19). This young Pinot specialist was formed in 2005 by a group of friends and coworkers. Brian Loring, one of the state’s most respected pinot winemakers, makes the wines.

2006 Freeman ($44). Founded in 2001 by Ken and Akiko Freeman, this winery works with several highly regarded growers to source top quality fruit.

2007 Sequana Dutton Ranch ($40). Sequana is the promising first venture into Pinot Noir for Hess Family Estates (owners of the Hess Collection in Napa Valley).

2007 Sequana Sundawg Ridge Vineyard ($50)

2006 Patz & Hall Chenoweth ($55). This 20 year-old Chardonnay and Pinot Noir specialist sources fruit from around the state to make almost exclusively single-vineyard bottlings.


Sonoma Coast

2007 La Crema ($25). La Crema was founded in 1979 and quickly established a reputation for good value Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It is now part of the Jess Jackson empire.

2006 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($40). Winemaker Steve MacRostie, who established his own operation in 1987 in Carneros, now is making impressive wines from this new vineyard.

2007 Patz & Hall ($42)

2006 Freeman ($44)

2006 Freeman Akiko’s Cuvee ($54)


Carneros

2007 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County ($20). One of the benchmark wineries of Sonoma County now part of the Fosters/Beringer conglomerate, this wine contains mostly fruit from the Benoist Ranch in Carneros, with some Russian River Valley fruit from the famed Durell Vineyard.

2007 Sebastiani ($28). Founded in 1904, this historic winery is now owned by Robert Foley who also owns such Central Coast wineries as Foley, Curtis and Firestone and Napa Valley’s Kuleto.

2007 Clos du Val ($30). This winery with a distinctively French heritage was founded in the Napa Valley in 1972 with a focus on Bordeaux varietals. It since has established a strong presence in Carneros.

2007 Etude ($42). Another highly regarded producer in the Fosters/Beringer stable.

2007 MacRostie Carneros ($30)


Although large swaths of Monterey County have been given over to large corporate vineyards, certain microclimates have been cultivated successfully by small, quality minded producers. The Santa Lucia Highlands overlooking the Salinas Valley especially has emerged as prime Pinot country.

Santa Lucia Highlands

2007 Paraiso ($25). Growers in Monterey since 1978 began bottling their own wines about 20 years ago with notable results.

2007 Pessagno Lucia Highland Vineyard ($28). Steve Pessagno, a longtime winemaker and grower in the area, now is making waves with his eponymous winery.

2007 Sequana Sarmento Vineyard ($32)


Other Monterey recommendations:

2006 Irony Monterey ($16). Originally conceived of as a Napa Valley brand by Delicato Family Vineyards, they found Monterey, where the family owns San Bernabe Vineyard, a more suitable place for Pinot Noir.

2007 Kali Hart Monterey ($19). This is a second label for Talbott Vineyards, one of the stat’s most prestigious Chardonnay producers. Named after the owner’s youngest daughter, this Pinot is made in an approachable style using estate fruit.


Next to Sonoma, Santa Barbara County has emerged in recent years as the state’s premier Pinot Noir region, with two great Pinot Noir AVAs. At the northern end of the county, the Santa Maria Valley is home to the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard and a growing number of impressive vineyards.

From a narrow opening near the Pacific Ocean, the Santa Ynez Valley broadens inland encompassing the vineyards and wineries that inspired the movie “Sideways.” The Santa Rita Hills in the western end of the valley, the home of the celebrated Sanford & Benedict vineyard, has garnered special attention in recent years.

Santa Maria Valley

2007 Cambria Julia’s Vineyard ($21). Cambria is a twenty year-old estate owned by Jackson Family Estates and a reliable source of good values.

2006 Byron Nielson ($28). This was the first vineyard planted to vinifera grapes in Santa Barbara County in 1964. Since then Byron has been in the forefront of winemaking achievement in the area.

2007 Cambria Bench Break Vineyard ($30)

2006 Byron Bien Nacido ($39)

2006 Byron Sierra Madre ($40)

2007 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Santa Barbara ($50). The well-known actor planted a vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley in 1989 and now has extensive holdings, as well as an inn and spa. They also source fruit from top vineyards in the county, as in this wine.

2007 Fess Parker Pommard Clone Bien Nacido ($50)

2006 Byron Monument ($60)


Santa Ynez Valley Santa Rita Hills

2007 Sea Smoke Southing ($50). This ten-year-old hillside vineyard has quickly established itself as a producer of some of the area’s best grapes. They focus on bottling different expressions of the site. These two new releases, while different (Southing is more elegant; Ten is more powerful) are both breathtaking.

2007 Sea Smoke Ten ($80)

2007 Fess Parker Ashley’s ($50)

2007 Fess Parker Clone 115 ($50)


Other Santa Barbara County:

2007 Pali Huntington ($19)

COLORADO BREWERS DOMINATE THE GABF

The 28th Great American Beer Festival (GABF) held a few weeks ago at the Colorado Convention Center continued its record setting ways. While most everything else in the economy is contracting, it seems the beer world just keeps expanding. Attendance, volunteers, and the number of breweries, beers on the floor, beers in the competition, and judges all increased over last year! And Colorado dominated the competition with 45 medals won (19 percent of the total), besting even such craft beer powerhouses as California and Oregon. Coors won the Large Brewing Company and Large Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards.Colorado’s craft brewers stepped up big time. They were led by Dry Dock Brewing Co. of Aurora, which took home the Small Brewing Company and Small Brewing Company Brewer of the Year awards. Upslope Brewing Co. of Boulder shared a Bronze medal in the Pro-Am competition, which pairs amateur brewers with professional brewers, for a brew called “Time of the Season.”

Here’s the impressive list of award winners.

Three medals each:

· Ska Brewing Co., Durango: True Blonde Ale (Bronze, English-Style Summer Ale), Buster Nut Brown (Silver, English Style Brown Ale), Steel Toe Stout (Bronze, Sweet Stout)

· Dry Dock Brewing Co., Aurora: Reines Marzen (Silver, German Style Märzen), Bismarck Altbier (Gold, German Style Altbier), U-Boat Hefeweizen (Silver, South German Style Hefeweizen)

· Great Divide Brewing Co., Denver: Hoss (Bronze, Rye Beer), Yeti Imperial Stout, (Silver, Imperial Stout), Old Ruffian Barley Wine, (Bronze, Barley Wine Style Ale)

· Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant Group, Broomfield: Czech Pilsner (Silver, Bohemian Style Pilsener), Golden Export (Bronze, Munich Style Helles), Dunkles, (Bronze, European Style Dunkel)

· The Sand Lot, Denver: Where the Helles Bill? (Silver, Munich Style Helles), Move Back, (Gold, Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest), Greenside Up (Silver, Dortmunder or German-Style Oktoberfest)

Two medals each:

· Avery Brewing Co., Boulder: Brabant (Bronze, Experimental Beer), The Kaiser (Gold, German Style Doppelbock or Eisbock)

· Colorado Boy Pub & Brewery, Ridgway, CO: Colorado Boy IPA (Bronze, Extra Special Bitter or Strong Bitter), Colorado Boy Irish (Silver, Irish Style Red Ale)

· Glenwood Canyon Brewing Co., Glenwood Springs: Cardiff (Gold, Other Strong Beer), Carbonator (Bronze, German Style Doppelbock or Eisbock)

One medal each:

· Backcountry Brewery, Frisco: May Bock (Silver, Bock)

· Bristol Brewing Co., Colorado Springs: Cheyenne Cañon Ale (Silver, American Style Brown Ale)

· Colorado Brewing Co./Draft House, Boulder: 44 Pale Ale (Silver, American Style Pale Ale)

· Durango Brewing Co., Durango: Durango Colorfest (Gold, American Style Amber Lager)

· Left Hand Brewing Co., Longmont: Smokejumper (Gold, Smoked Beer)

· Mountain Sun Pub and Brewery, Boulder: Temperance (Bronze, American-Belgo-Style Ale)

· New Belgium Brewing Co., Inc., Fort Collins: NBB Love (Silver, German-Style Sour Ale)

· Rockyard Brewing Co., Castle Rock: Double Eagle Ale (Bronze, American-Style Wheat Beer)

· Trinity Brewing Co, Colorado Springs: TPS Report (Gold, Experimental Beer)

· Upslope Brewing Co., Boulder: Upslope Dunkel Weizen (Bronze, German-Style Wheat Ale)

I was glad top see the festival continued its emphasis on matching beer with food. There were many interesting combinations available in the Beer & Food Pavilion. There also were informative seminars and cooking demonstrations. Even more impressive was that the festival continues its efforts to remain on the cutting edge of sustainability initiatives. A good example was the partnership with “Zero Hero” to assure all disposable items were either compostable or recyclable. Another welcome innovation this year was the “Farm to Table” Pavilion. This joined chefs and local farmers with craft brewers to create exciting dishes and satisfying pairings. The Brewers Association, a brewing company trade association based in Boulder that markets the festival should be proud for organizing such a successful event in these tough economic times. And the future looks good, too. The Brewers Association also reports continued growth in the craft beer industry, with the country now reaching 1525 breweries, the most in 100 years. Let’s all raise a glass .... or two!

UNDERSTANDING HUNTER VALLEY SEMILLON

Semillon “is one of the unsung heroes of white wine production.” So it says in the definitive Oxford Companion to Wine. Unsung presumably because although the grape is widely cultivated, there are very few places where it produces wines of distinction. But where it does those wines can be glorious. The most notable of these are the great dessert wines of Sauternes in which Semillon is the leading component (blended with sauvignon blanc) lending a plump, fleshy quality, butterscotch, lanolin and aging potential. Somewhat less so are the fine dry whites of Graves (also blended with sauvignon). Typically, these wines are oaky, creamy and rich, with nuttty, honey, and melon. Most everywhere else semillon is an afterthought, a minor blending component or occasionally an unremarkable varietal wine.

The most notable exception is the Hunter Valley of Australia, a region about 2 hours north of Sidney that enjoys the distinction of being the location of the first vineyards planted in Australia (1830). I recently had a chance to experience the uniqueness of Hunter Vallet Semillon as I tasted three recent releases from Brokenwood Wines, a 40 year-old winery that has become an icon in the valley. Founded in 1970 by Tony Albert, John Beeston and James Halliday (AKA Australia’s leading wine critic), Brokenwood has evolved into one of Australia’s benchmark wineries. Iain Riggs, winemaker since 1982, crafts not only some of the Hunter Valley’s most prized Semillons but also one of Australia’s most iconic single vineyard wines, the Graveyard Shiraz. As these wines demonstrated, there is something about the combination of sandy, loamy, clay soils, high humidity, hot but wet summers, and dry winters there that create a hospitable environment for a style of Semillon that is austere and delicate when young. But, thanks to the high acidity, have a rare ability to age (some reportedly as long as twenty plus years) into wines with a wondrous richness and complexity.

For those used to soft, fruity, sweetish whites, these wines may be a little difficult to comprehend. They are made without oak, are quite bracing, and sport refreshingly low alcohol (10-11%), perfect as an aperitif or with delicate seafood dishes. But, after five, ten, or more years, they develop into luscious wines of notably different character, suitable for richer dishes. Brokenwood’s 2008 Hunter Valley (10%, $20) is typical of the young style: pale, citrusy and austere. The aroma is a bit muted, though there are hints of racy lime, lemongrass and smoky herb with a suggestion of mineral. It is refreshingly spirited in the mouth with lively acidity and light spice in the finish. It’s fun to drink now but it should evolve nicely five more years. The 2005 Brycefield, Belford Vineyards (11%, $32) gives hints to what happens as Hunter Valley Semillon ages. The aroma has broadened, showing citrus, fig, tangerine and butterscotch, along with grassy and mineral (talc?) notes. The palate is still extremely lively with more tangerine, citrus and some spice. The texture has rounded and filled out. Will evolve for several more years. The epitome of Brokenwood Semillon is the 2003 ILR Reserve (11.5%, $45). The color is golden. The aromas display toast, honey, and almond notes. The palate enters with lively acidity, lemon, lime, melon mineral and herb laced through a rich texture. As good as this is now, one senses even more pleasures yet to come. These Hunter Valley Semillons are great wines in the making, if you have the patience to wait for them. Who says white wines can age?!

DRY CREEK VALLEY DOMINATES RECENT ZINFANDEL TASTINGS

As my favorite wine, I naturally drink a lot of Zinfandel. One reason is it’s quite versatile with food. The more elegant styles are great with red meat, especially lamb. The more assertive styles easily compliment spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But I really like it with barbecue and grilled meats like burgers, sausage and barbecued chicken. And even chocolate! I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance and zest in a glass. Although it can be made in a variety of styles, it typically is big and bold, with raspberry and blackberry fruit accented with spice and a brash, even a little wild character often described as bramble. Even better, it is one of the best values in wine, considering the overall quality, which can rival the finest wines in the world, and that most of even the best wines are under $35.

There is one potential problem, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol, which can make for excessively hot, sweet, flabby wines. It is possible, though, to balance the alcohol with intense fruit. And, thankfully, most of the wines below do that. My tastings this year were dominated by Dry Creek Valley, that narrow strip of beauty in northern Sonoma. Here are my recommendations:

Rosenblum. Founder Kent Rosenblum has sold his winery after thirty years to Diageo but remains as the consulting winemaker. During that time, Rosenblum’s zins (about 22) have become benchmarks for the varietal. The hillside vineyard location has yielded a 2006 Rockpile Road ($35) that is full, rich and intense.

Dry Creek Vineyard. Founded by David Stare in 1972, this is the modern day pioneer of Dry Creek Valley wine. While a variety of wines are made, including very good Sauvignon Blanc, I have always been partial to the Zinfandels. The 2006 Somers Ranch ($34) is a textbook zin from a hillside vineyard. The 2006 Beeson Ranch ($34) offers impressive depth and surprising suppleness from a 120-year-old vineyard.

Dashe Cellars. More people should know about the wines of Anne and Michael Dashe. This husband and wife team focuses primarily on making wines from older hillside vineyards in Sonoma County. The 2007 ($24) offers the intense fruit and structure that is the signature of that terroir.

Mazzocco Winery. This winery’s Zinfandel portfolio has expanded dramatically, now featuring around 15 different bottlings. In general, the wines below (all 2006) are intense and jammy, with crisp acidity and an abundant finish. They also are the highest alcohol table wines I’ve tasted in a long time. They are controversial among critics but I found them to be enough in balance with abundant fruit and texture that the extra alcohol was less noticeable, except for heat in the finish. My suggestion? Make up your own mind.

· West Dry Creek ($32) and Reserve ($50)

· Warm Springs Ranch ($32) and Reserve ($50)

· Maple ($40) and Reserve ($60)

· Pony ($32) and Reserve ($50)

· Smith Orchard Reserve ($50)

· Lytton ($29)

Dutcher Crossing. This winery was established in 2001 as the realization of a lifelong dream of Debra Mathy, who had previously been a teacher in Colorado. The elegant 2007 Bernier-Sibary Vineyard ($39) offers strong darks fruits and a slightly bitter finish, while the 2007 Maple Vineyard “Bill’s Block” ($49) is a powerful mouthful.

Lake Sonoma. Founded in 1977 and owned by Gary Heck (Korbel, Kenwood, Valley of the Moon) since 1996, Lake Sonoma is a reliable source of flavorful, well-priced zins. The well-regarded Saini Farms benchland vineyard delivered a nice 2006 Old Vine ($22).

Artezin. This label is owned by the Hess family (of Hess Collection in Napa and wineries in Argentina, Australia, South Africa and Russian River Valley). Hess works closely with selected growers to source quality fruit, a strategy that was quite successful with the 2007 ($25).

Not surprisingly, other areas in Sonoma County also showed well.

Murphy-Goode. Founded in 1985 and now owned by Jess Jackson, two current releases, the 2005 “Snake Eyes” Ellis Ranch ($35), from a 70-year-old vineyard in Alexander Valley, and 2006 Liar’s Dice ($21), an easy drinking blend of Dry Creek and Alexander Valley fruit, hit the mark.

Rodney Strong. Founded by the iconic Rod Strong in 1962, the winery was purchased by Tom Klein in 1989 but the wines still are made by Rick Sayre who has been the winemaker since 1979. Rick’s 2007 “Knotty Vines” ($20) is a fine blend of Russian River and Alexander Valley fruit.

St. Francis. This Sonoma Valley winery dates to 1971 and the vines that sourced the 2006 Old Vines ($22) are at least 50 years old, head-trained and dry farmed from small family owned vineyards in Sonoma County.

Napa Valley, too, can deliver very good zin.

Frank Family. Hollywood executive Rich Frank’s winery near Calistoga on the historic Larkmead winery property produces notable cabs, Chardonnay and sparkling wines. But I’ve always enjoyed the zin and the 2006 ($37) is another winner.

Napa Cellars. This winery is owned by the Trinchero family who are famous for their Sutter Home wines but now also own something like 25 brands. Much of the fruit for the 2006 Napa Valley ($22) was sourced from the warmer regions of Napa Valley, including Calistoga, St. Helena and Pope Valley. As such, it shows ripe fruit and a lush texture.

Kuleto. Established by well-known restaurant designer Pat Kuleto and now majority-owned by Foley Family Estates, this mountain vineyard overlooking the Napa Valley from the east produces fine Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah. The 2006 Estate ($40) shows they also can make excellent Zinfandel.

Paraduxx. This is a one wine winery built by Duckhorn to produce a “Super Tuscan” style blend dominated by zinfandel. The 2005 ($45) is a well-structured wine that includes cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc.

Additional recommendations in order of preference:

2006 Rosenblum Annette’s Reserve Mendocino County ($35)

2006 Rosenblum Eagle Point Mendocino County ($25)

2006 Rosenblum Carla’s Reserve Contra Costa County ($30)

2007 Artezin Mendocino County ($18)

2006 Dancing Bull California ($12)

2006 Mazzocco Stone Alexander Valley ($29)

2008 Ironstone Old Vine Lodi ($10)

2007 Rosenblum Contra Costa County ($17)

2007 Shannon Ridge Lake County ($19)

2006 Twisted Vines Old Vine California ($8)

A Red, White and Rose Summer

Hotter weather means lighter reds means its time to rediscover Beaujolais.

Beaujolais

If it’s been a while since you had a glass of Beaujolais, now is the time to rediscover this refreshing red.

Beaujolais comes from the so-named French region just north of the city of Lyon. Technically part of the Burgundy region, it actually is made from a different grape and using different vinification techniques. Beaujolias typically is made using a distinctive whole bunch fermentation process solely with the gamay grape. Gamay is known for a distinctive flavor profile of mostly bright red fruits, floral, herbal and mineral notes, and lively acidity. As a bonus, most are low alcohol (12.5% to 13%) by today’s standards and are best served slightly chilled.

At the top of the quality range are the ten “crus” associated with ten designated villages.  My recent tasting included wines from seven of the crus  (no Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent or Regnie). The three clear favorites have a fairly full body, good depth and complexity):

Fleurie: 2007 Pierre-Marie Chermette “Domaine du Vissoux” Les Garants ($24)

Morgon: 2007 Georges Dubeouf “Jean Descombes” ($15)

Cote-de-Brouilly: Nicole Chanrion “Domaine de la Voute des Crozes” ($19)

Just below these in preference, showing lots of fruit and good structure, were four 2007 Dubeouf “Flower Label” wines  – Chiroubles ($13), Julienas ($13), Fleurie ($16), Saint-Amour  ($16). The 2006 Chateau de La Chaize Brouilly ($12) was identified as a solid value.

At the entry level, are the lighter, fruiter wines labeled simply “Beaujolais.”  These are the wines that emulate the simple,  exuberant style most often associated with Beaujolais. In between in quality and character is “Beaujolais- Villages.”  Whichever level you choose, Beaujolais represents one of the best values around.

Pinot Gris

In the heat of the summer, a light, refreshing aromatic white hits the spot much better than a big, buttery Chardonnay. There are many good candidates—Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Viognier, and Chenin Blanc. Right now I’m drinking a lot of Pinot Gris (and Pinot Grigio).

Pinot Grigio (the Italian style) tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame. Pinot Gris (the French style) offers a similar flavor profile but tends to be fuller bodied. Same grape. Two styles. Both good.

Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” reaches its epitome in Alsace but the Pinot Grigio of northeastern Italy may be the version best known to Americans. Pinot Gris also is considered to be Oregon’s best white wine and is gaining a growing list of converts in California and such far flung places as New Zealand and Australia.

Most of these wines never see a minute of wood. The resulting wines generally are crisp, fairly high acid, and aromatic, with bright fruit flavors (melon, lemon-lime, pear, peach and apricot). Occasionally, one can discern nut or mineral.

Here is a reliable shopping list from my recent tastings:

Pinot Gris

2007 Milbrandt Traditions Columbia Valley ($13)
2007 Helfrich Alsace ($15)
2007 Oak Knoll Willamette Valley ($16)
2008 J Vineyards Russian River Valley ($16)
2007 Sven Hills Oregon ($16)
2007 King Estate “Signature Collection” Oregon ($17)
2008 Etude Carneros ($24)
2007 King Estate “Domaine” Oregon ($25)

Pinot Grigio

2008 Fish Eye delle Venezie ($7)
2007 Twisted Wines California ($8)
2007 Stellina di Notte delle Venezie ($10)
2008 Castello di Gabbiano delle Venezie ($10)
2008 Gnarly Head California ($11)
2008 Robert Oatley South Australia ($18)

In the Pink

With all the attention showered on red and white wines, it is easy for consumers to forget that there are many tasty pink wines worth their attention. This is especially true now when cool, refreshing wines are most in demand.

I like to think of pink wines as "bridge" wines. They are versatile enough to make an excellent aperitif or to accompany most foods. They also can substitute for the acidity of a white wine or the darker fruit of a red wine.

Ironically pink wines are under appreciated in this country while the popularity of blush wines has reinforced the perception that these aren't real wines.  Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good pink wine.

I’m talking about wines that are dry or occasionally only slightly sweet. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry. Some even exhibit a red-like level of intensity, body and complexity. Expect fresh fruit flavors that approximate the flavor profile of its red siblings but drinks more like a white wine. Because of their freshness and lively fruit, pinks are always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel (which sources the grenache-dominated 2008 Chateau d’Aqueria, $19). Also look for Rosé d'Anjou from the Loire Valley and Beaujolais Rosé (try the 2008 Louis Jadot, $11).

In the U.S., West Coast producers finally have gotten on the quality bandwagon. Here are four favorites I’ve tasted recently.

2007 Red Côte Rosé Suisun Valley (cabernet sauvignon/petite sirah, $13)

2008 Pali Sunset Rose (pinot noir/grenache, $15)

2008 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley ($16)

2008 Etude Rosé of Pinot Noir Carneros ($20)

Finally, let’s head down below to New Zealand and Australia. Try the 2008 Wild Rock Vin Gris Rosé Hawkes Bay ($17). The term Vin Gris” or “grey wine” is a tribute to the French, which often used the term to denote a rosé. From Australia, a surprisingly good choice is the 2008 Robert Oatley Rosé of Sangiovese ($18).

I look forward to tasting more throughout the summer and urge you to investigate this underappreciated category. For further research, check out Rosé Avengers and Producers at www.rapwine.org.

Sauvignon Blanc Emerges from Chardonnay's Shadow

Long languishing in the shadow of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc - the crisp, refreshing, food-friendly wine with a citrusy, herbaceous character - is better than ever.

California
2003 Dry Creek Vineyard "Fume" Sonoma ($15)
2007 Markham Napa Valley ($17)
2008 Hanna Russian River Valley ($19)
2008 Winery at Holy Cross Abbey Reserve ($19)
2008 Sauvignon Republic Russian River Valley ($20)
2003 Kendall-Jackson Grand Reserve ($20)
2003 Dry Creek Vineyard Estate "Fume" DCV3 ($25)
2003 Dry Creek Vineyard Taylor's Vineyard Musque ($25)
2007 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($27)
2007 Flora Springs Soliloquy ($27)
2003 Mayacamas Mount Veeder ($30)
2003 Grgich Hills Napa Valley "Fume" ($30)
2007 Joseph Phelps St. Helena ($32)

California Blends
2007 Hayman & Hill Interchange ($15)
2007 Beringer Alluvium ($17)
2007 Bennet Lane Maximus ($28)

New Zealand (Marlborough)
2008 New Harbor ($11)
2007 Wairu River ($19)
2008 Long Boat ($20)
2008 Matua Valley ($10)
2008 Sauvignon Republic ($20)

South Africa (Stellenbosch)
2008 Sauvignon Republic ($20)

Chile
2008 Louis Felipe Edwards Reserva ($10)
2008 Valdevieso ($10)
2008 Veramonte ($11)
2008 Casablanca Nimbus ($12)
2008 MontGras Reserva ($12)
2007 Penalolen ($12)
2008 Alcance ($15)

Eco-Friendly Wines

These days wine consumers concerned about the environment find it easier to do their part to reduce the pollution, carbon footprint, greenhouse gas emissions and fuel consumption associated with their wine purchases. More wineries and vineyards are employing various sustainable practices every day. These can include organic/biodynamic viticulture and practices that promote social equity, community involvement, energy efficiency, pest management, air quality, water quality and conservation. There even is a healthy debate going on over which is greener: cork or screw cap, bottle or box. But that’s another column for another time.In recognition of the increasing emphasis on the Green Economy and in honor of the just passed Earth Day, here are a few winery efforts that have caught my attention recently.

Fetzer arguably is the pioneer of sustainable practices and business social responsibility in Califonia’s wine industry. A wide range of programs aimed at sustainability in the vineyard, the winery and the throughout the corporation, today include a large solar array, lighter weight glass in wine bottles, a zero waste recycling and waste management, energy and water conservation, community involvement, and outreach in the wine industry to share best practices. Its Bonterra wines are produced from organic grapes and occasionally biodynamic grapes. One of the leaders of the Fetzer program for most of its years, Paul Dolan now has carried that ethic with him to Parducci Wine Cellars. Some examples of what he and his partners are doing at Parducci: a commitment to business social responsibility, reclaiming 100% of the water used in the cellars, using 100% green power and earth-friendly packaging, and sharing ideas with the industry through The Green Winegrowing Handbook. In recognition of such work Parducci has received awards for becoming the nation’s first carbon neutral winery and for its work on climate change issues.

Oregon’s wine industry as a whole has been in the foerfront of sustainable practices and Cooper Mountain Vineyards has been a leader especially in biodynamic and organic wines. Its vineyards have attained organic and Biodynamic certification and the winery is certified organic for operations and processing. And is the first U.S. winery to gain label approval for a no-sulfite-added wine under the new National Organic Program standards. Cooper Mountain also understands that the wine industry is one of the first industries that will be affected by global warming. Consequently, the winery is working to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions to zero by early 2009.

Value brand Glen Ellen recently replaced its 187 ml single serving glass bottles with 250 ml Tetra Paks, a convenient carton that protects freshness and eliminates the possibility of cork taint and offer significant energy savings in production, transportation and storage, reducing greenhouse gases and saving fuel. Easy to open and reseal, portable, lightweight, and resistant to breakage, they are perfect for picnics and parties. Cuvaison in the Napa Valley has long been a leader in sustainability. Its Carneros winery now uses a solar system and they minimize the use of synthetic and carbon-based inputs in its farming. Now the company is working with ReCORK America to plant up to 1,000 corks in threatened habitats of Portugal’s cork oak forests. For more information about ReCORK America, especially their program focused on obtaining used and surplus corks from winery tasting rooms, bottling lines, retailers, restaurants, and quality assurance laboratories, visit their Web site at www.recorkamerica.com.

J. Lohr Vineyards recently unveiled a huge solar tracking array designed to offset 75% of the winery’s energy usage at its Paso Robles operations. This is added to the company’s program of sustainable winegrowing and winemaking practices, including utilization of organic soil amendments, limited use of chemicals, erosion control, water conservation, extensive pomace composting and materials recycling. Check out wines from the Niven family – Baileyana, Tangent, and Edna Valley Vineyard – whose Paragon and Firepeak vineyards, both in the Edna Valley on California's South Central Coast, recently earned the Sustainability in Practice certification for their collective commitment to environmental stewardship, economic viability, and equitable treatment of employees. Areas addressed to earn the certification include biodiversity, social equity, community involvement, energy efficiency, pest management, air quality, water quality and conservation, and practices that reduce risk. Cap your evening with Terra Bella ($23), the world’s first certified organic Port, developed by Fonseca, one of the most esteemed Port houses and one of the first to develop organic viticultural methods in the Douro.

Search off the beaten path to stretch your wine budget

To stretch your wine dollars, look to traditionally lesser-known regions.

Wines from southern France long have lived in the shadow of their more famous cousins, Bordeaux and Burgundy. Cotes-du-Rhone (syrah, Grenache) and Cote du Ventoux (syrah, Grenache) in the southeast are perennial value standards, but Cahors (malbec) in the southwest often is a nice surprise.

For Italy, the action mostly is in the south, especially Abruzzo, Molise, Puglia and Sicily.

The most interesting wines are made from indigenous red grapes, including montepulciano, negroamaro, primitivo, malvasia nera and nero d'avola, and white grapes such as grillo and moscato.

In Spain, the sparkling Cava from the Penedes region beats just about everyone else in the bubbly world for value.

We all know about the phenomenon that is modern Australian wine, but few of us know that good values are emerging from the small island of Tasmania.

Portugal is undergoing a renaissance in its table wines, with quality from red grapes otherwise used for Port soaring.

The Temecula Valley

My niece, Cari, is my idea of a wine aficionado. She not only is knowledgeable about a wide range of wines and wine regions, she also is passionate about all aspects of wine. And she is especially knowledgeable and enthusiastic about her home wine region, the Temecula Valley. So much so she has been begging my family and I to come visit her for several years now. Of course, she's wanted to see us, but I know she also has been anxious to show me the Temecula Valley.

The Temecula Valley is southern California's wine country. The first thing I noticed about the valley was its rather convenient location for tourist visits, being close to the suburban housing developments nearby. It also is just 60 miles northeast of San Diego and 90 miles southeast of LA. If you are taking your kids to nearby Legoland, visiting friends in the area or just want a wine country experience other than Napa and Sonoma, the Temecula Valley is a worthy option.

Head east from I-15 on Rancho California Road, which becomes the valley's main drag (sort of like what Highway 29 is for Napa Valley). You can expect to find a wine country experience similar to that of any larger, better know region. Among the 30+ wineries, there are small, family wineries and larger, modern wineries. Several feature restaurants, well-stocked gift shops and facilities for special events, and many tasting rooms offer discounts for veterans.

As for the vineyards, the valley struck me as a region with more similarity in terrain, soil and climate than I have seen in other regions I have visited. Most vineyards sit at a fairly high elevation, 1100-1600 feet. Although there is some variation, the soils are largely decomposed granite. The climate features warm, dry days and cool evenings. Although separated from the Pacific Ocean by the Santa Rosa Range, the Rainbow Gap funnels the moderating ocean breezes into the valley.

Traveling on Rancho California Road, one of the first wineries you will see as you enter the valley is Hart Winery. Joe Travis, Nancy Hart and their three sons began planting vineyards in 1974 and added the winery in 1980. This small, family operation has the feel of a place that hasn't changed much in the last 30 years. That's a good thing - the rustic barn-like winery recedes to leave the emphasis on the wide range of wines.

A short distance up the Road, John Poole established Mount Palomar Winery's first vineyards also in 1969 and began making his own wine in 1975. His son, Peter, took over operation in 1985. Today, Mount Palomar includes an estate comprised of vineyards, a large piazza, concert stage, and terraces plus the winery and visitor's center. The wines emphasize Bordeaux style blends and Italian varieties (bottled under the Castelletto name).

Across the road, Faulkner Winery is located high on a hill with a spectacular view overlooking the Valley. Ray and Loretta Falkner left corporate careers to establish the property in 2000. A showcase winery, with extensive inside and outside tasting areas, wedding and banquet facilities are available. The focus here is on blended wines, including Super Tuscan Style and Bordeaux Style red blends.

Expect an even more impressive tourist attraction winery is the Ponte Family Estate. It was conceived and built by Ponte brothers Roberto and Claudio, grape growers in Temecula since 1984. A large tasting room-market-gift shop greets the visitor. We also enjoyed a fine, elegant lunch at the outdoor Smokehouse Restaurant. A bit off the beaten path, at the far end of Rancho California Road, Doffo Winery is worth the extra effort. Marcelo Doffo purchased the property in 1997. From the road it looked like another nice home with a large garage. Inside, though, the hospitable Doffo family busily attended to their customers need.

Two of the best wineries we visited were located completely off the main road. Cougar Vineyards and Winery (purchased in 2005) is the culmination of what started as a hobby for Rick and Jennifer Buffington 16 years ago. The small production focuses primarily on Italian varietals. Nicholas and Cindy Palumbo purchased what is now Palumbo Family Vineyards and Winery in1998. Another small, family run winery, the Palumbo's are committed to small lot, handcrafted wines from varieties that are grown only on the property. Specializing in full-bodied reds, the estate-grown and produced offerings include both single variety bottlings as well as a few special blends.

There is much more to the valley than we could cover in two days, including a full-fledged resort and a few large, commercial wineries, like Callaway Vineyard and Winery (think the golf equipment company of the same name). Having pioneered wine production in the valley in 1969, Callaway has become the valley's largest, best known and most widely distributed producer. But Cari and I agreed that the smaller, family-owned operations are our preference. Callaway's Sweet Nancy certainly is a fine dessert but the other highlights all came from family wineries: Hart's full flavored 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Mt. Palomar's Solera Cream Sherry, Ponte's 2006 Dolcetto, Doffo's 2005 Syrah and 2005 Mistura (cabernet/syrah), Cougar's 2006 Aglianico and 2006 Malbec, and Palumbo's 2005 Cabernet Franc Catfish Vineyard and "Tre Fratelli" (Bordeaux blend).

After a setback in the 1990s when its vineyard sources were ravaged by Pierce's Disease and vineyard acreage fell from 2,300 to 1,300 acres, the valley seems to have largely recovered and should benefit from the replanting that has followed. Many producers are getting especially good results with Rhone and Italian varietals. The Temecula Valley looks poised for a fine future. I look forward to tracking its progress.

For information on Temecula Valley, the winegrowers' association, and travel information, check out http://www.temeculawines.org/.

For winery details and to shop for Temecula wines, go to http://www.shoptemeculawines.com/.

Here’s a Toast to the Best of the Rest

Wondering what to do with that gift card for your local wine shop? It'll be a nice treat to pick up something really good to save for a special occasion. Red or white, look down this column for some surefire options. These are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven't already reviewed. If you really want to splurge, you can't do much better than the 2005 Joseph Phelps "Insignia" Napa Valley ($200). This is the 34th vintage of this iconic Bordeaux-style blend. While previous years have included more merlot and malbec, this one sports 92 percent cabernet sauvignon with just a touch of petite verdot and merlot. It is a wine that puts power and luxury all in balance.

While we're on to Bordeaux-style blends, there are two more fine examples, and at especially attractive prices. The 2004 Rodney Strong "Symmetry" Alexander Valley ($55) is an elegant blend of 71 percent cabernet sauvignon with herbal, chocolate and tobacco notes from additions of merlot, malbec and petite verdot. Barb and Bart O'Brien established their winery just a few years ago when they purchased a vineyard in the Oak Knoll district in California's southern Napa Valley. Their 2004 O'Brien "Seduction" ($36) is mostly cabernet sauvignon with dollops of merlot and malbec. It is rich with juicy fruit complimented by cocoa and tobacco hints.

If you want to go flat out for a good, solid Napa Valley cabernet, I've got some fine choices. From a small family winery, the 2005 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($36) uses grapes including Rutherford and Oakville to produce a well-knit wine with luscious oak aromas and rich chocolate flavors. Even more impressive is the 2004 Rutherford Bench Reserve ($55). Abundant fruit is wrapped in creamy oak, delivered in a broad, plump texture. Former Hollywood executive Rich Frank oversees one of Napa Valley's most hospitable wineries, where tasting is free and wines are really good. The 2004 Frank Family Rutherford Reserve ($85) uses grapes from Frank's Winston Hill Vineyard on the east side of the valley. It is a large-scale wine with woodsy and mineral notes and strong tannins.

Another surefire option is Washington's Leonetti Cellar, which celebrates its 30th anniversary with these fine releases. The blend of 63 percent cabernet sauvignon, 13 percent merlot and 17 percent petite verdot for the 2005 Reserve Walla Walla Valley ($125) yields a dense, dark, complex, structured wine. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley ($80) is a classic, sharply defined cabernet with herbal and minty notes in a polished frame. The 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley ($65) is no ordinary merlot. This one is concentrated with pure, fresh fruit, toasty oak and floral notes. The wines may prove hard to find but they are worth the effort.

For a little variety, look to Parducci, the oldest winery in Mendocino that today is owned by Paul Dolan (formerly of Fetzer). The 2005 "True Grit" petite sirah ($30) is a tribute to the determination of the immigrant farmers who first planted the vineyards. Fresh fruit with mineral hints and powerful tannins make for a wine that is delicious now but should drink well for years.

Chardonnay drinkers should look to Monterey, Calif.-based Pessagno Winery, which specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay from the region's best vineyards. I recommended some of the pinot noir choices in a previous column, and these chardonnays are great complements. The 2005 "Intrinity" Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) is essentially a reserve with lavish oak and luscious tropical fruit held together with fine acidity. The 2006 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($32) offers seductive lemon, apple and caramel.

You also should consider Chablis. The wines of this region at the northernmost end of Burgundy are 100 percent chardonnay. The cool climate and high-mineral-content soils (clay and limestone from fossilized oyster shells) produce a unique result that is the reference point for a style of chardonnay with highly focused acidity, little or no oak, and qualities that have been described using words like chalk, stone, mineral, green, steely, and flinty. While such qualities might surprise some, these wines truly reflect their origins.

Although the best-quality wines are not inexpensive, they are much less so than top Burgundies and priced on a par with California's best. The seven highest-quality vineyards are classified as Grand Cru. The next level, Premier Cru, is more plentiful and often very nearly as good, especially from a top producer like Domaine William Fevre. I loved three of Fevre's Premier Cru wines. They all offer pure citrus fruit, that characteristic chalk, and a judicious use of oak. The 2005 "Vaillons" ($40) adds an intriguing savory note. The 2006 "Montmains" ($45) shows more peach and tangerine fruit. The 2006 "Fourchame" Premier Cru ($55) is the most complex and minerally.