The Temecula Valley

My niece, Cari, is my idea of a wine aficionado. She not only is knowledgeable about a wide range of wines and wine regions, she also is passionate about all aspects of wine. And she is especially knowledgeable and enthusiastic about her home wine region, the Temecula Valley. So much so she has been begging my family and I to come visit her for several years now. Of course, she's wanted to see us, but I know she also has been anxious to show me the Temecula Valley.

The Temecula Valley is southern California's wine country. The first thing I noticed about the valley was its rather convenient location for tourist visits, being close to the suburban housing developments nearby. It also is just 60 miles northeast of San Diego and 90 miles southeast of LA. If you are taking your kids to nearby Legoland, visiting friends in the area or just want a wine country experience other than Napa and Sonoma, the Temecula Valley is a worthy option.

Head east from I-15 on Rancho California Road, which becomes the valley's main drag (sort of like what Highway 29 is for Napa Valley). You can expect to find a wine country experience similar to that of any larger, better know region. Among the 30+ wineries, there are small, family wineries and larger, modern wineries. Several feature restaurants, well-stocked gift shops and facilities for special events, and many tasting rooms offer discounts for veterans.

As for the vineyards, the valley struck me as a region with more similarity in terrain, soil and climate than I have seen in other regions I have visited. Most vineyards sit at a fairly high elevation, 1100-1600 feet. Although there is some variation, the soils are largely decomposed granite. The climate features warm, dry days and cool evenings. Although separated from the Pacific Ocean by the Santa Rosa Range, the Rainbow Gap funnels the moderating ocean breezes into the valley.

Traveling on Rancho California Road, one of the first wineries you will see as you enter the valley is Hart Winery. Joe Travis, Nancy Hart and their three sons began planting vineyards in 1974 and added the winery in 1980. This small, family operation has the feel of a place that hasn't changed much in the last 30 years. That's a good thing - the rustic barn-like winery recedes to leave the emphasis on the wide range of wines.

A short distance up the Road, John Poole established Mount Palomar Winery's first vineyards also in 1969 and began making his own wine in 1975. His son, Peter, took over operation in 1985. Today, Mount Palomar includes an estate comprised of vineyards, a large piazza, concert stage, and terraces plus the winery and visitor's center. The wines emphasize Bordeaux style blends and Italian varieties (bottled under the Castelletto name).

Across the road, Faulkner Winery is located high on a hill with a spectacular view overlooking the Valley. Ray and Loretta Falkner left corporate careers to establish the property in 2000. A showcase winery, with extensive inside and outside tasting areas, wedding and banquet facilities are available. The focus here is on blended wines, including Super Tuscan Style and Bordeaux Style red blends.

Expect an even more impressive tourist attraction winery is the Ponte Family Estate. It was conceived and built by Ponte brothers Roberto and Claudio, grape growers in Temecula since 1984. A large tasting room-market-gift shop greets the visitor. We also enjoyed a fine, elegant lunch at the outdoor Smokehouse Restaurant. A bit off the beaten path, at the far end of Rancho California Road, Doffo Winery is worth the extra effort. Marcelo Doffo purchased the property in 1997. From the road it looked like another nice home with a large garage. Inside, though, the hospitable Doffo family busily attended to their customers need.

Two of the best wineries we visited were located completely off the main road. Cougar Vineyards and Winery (purchased in 2005) is the culmination of what started as a hobby for Rick and Jennifer Buffington 16 years ago. The small production focuses primarily on Italian varietals. Nicholas and Cindy Palumbo purchased what is now Palumbo Family Vineyards and Winery in1998. Another small, family run winery, the Palumbo's are committed to small lot, handcrafted wines from varieties that are grown only on the property. Specializing in full-bodied reds, the estate-grown and produced offerings include both single variety bottlings as well as a few special blends.

There is much more to the valley than we could cover in two days, including a full-fledged resort and a few large, commercial wineries, like Callaway Vineyard and Winery (think the golf equipment company of the same name). Having pioneered wine production in the valley in 1969, Callaway has become the valley's largest, best known and most widely distributed producer. But Cari and I agreed that the smaller, family-owned operations are our preference. Callaway's Sweet Nancy certainly is a fine dessert but the other highlights all came from family wineries: Hart's full flavored 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, Mt. Palomar's Solera Cream Sherry, Ponte's 2006 Dolcetto, Doffo's 2005 Syrah and 2005 Mistura (cabernet/syrah), Cougar's 2006 Aglianico and 2006 Malbec, and Palumbo's 2005 Cabernet Franc Catfish Vineyard and "Tre Fratelli" (Bordeaux blend).

After a setback in the 1990s when its vineyard sources were ravaged by Pierce's Disease and vineyard acreage fell from 2,300 to 1,300 acres, the valley seems to have largely recovered and should benefit from the replanting that has followed. Many producers are getting especially good results with Rhone and Italian varietals. The Temecula Valley looks poised for a fine future. I look forward to tracking its progress.

For information on Temecula Valley, the winegrowers' association, and travel information, check out http://www.temeculawines.org/.

For winery details and to shop for Temecula wines, go to http://www.shoptemeculawines.com/.

Here’s a Toast to the Best of the Rest

Wondering what to do with that gift card for your local wine shop? It'll be a nice treat to pick up something really good to save for a special occasion. Red or white, look down this column for some surefire options. These are the best wines I tasted this year that I haven't already reviewed. If you really want to splurge, you can't do much better than the 2005 Joseph Phelps "Insignia" Napa Valley ($200). This is the 34th vintage of this iconic Bordeaux-style blend. While previous years have included more merlot and malbec, this one sports 92 percent cabernet sauvignon with just a touch of petite verdot and merlot. It is a wine that puts power and luxury all in balance.

While we're on to Bordeaux-style blends, there are two more fine examples, and at especially attractive prices. The 2004 Rodney Strong "Symmetry" Alexander Valley ($55) is an elegant blend of 71 percent cabernet sauvignon with herbal, chocolate and tobacco notes from additions of merlot, malbec and petite verdot. Barb and Bart O'Brien established their winery just a few years ago when they purchased a vineyard in the Oak Knoll district in California's southern Napa Valley. Their 2004 O'Brien "Seduction" ($36) is mostly cabernet sauvignon with dollops of merlot and malbec. It is rich with juicy fruit complimented by cocoa and tobacco hints.

If you want to go flat out for a good, solid Napa Valley cabernet, I've got some fine choices. From a small family winery, the 2005 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($36) uses grapes including Rutherford and Oakville to produce a well-knit wine with luscious oak aromas and rich chocolate flavors. Even more impressive is the 2004 Rutherford Bench Reserve ($55). Abundant fruit is wrapped in creamy oak, delivered in a broad, plump texture. Former Hollywood executive Rich Frank oversees one of Napa Valley's most hospitable wineries, where tasting is free and wines are really good. The 2004 Frank Family Rutherford Reserve ($85) uses grapes from Frank's Winston Hill Vineyard on the east side of the valley. It is a large-scale wine with woodsy and mineral notes and strong tannins.

Another surefire option is Washington's Leonetti Cellar, which celebrates its 30th anniversary with these fine releases. The blend of 63 percent cabernet sauvignon, 13 percent merlot and 17 percent petite verdot for the 2005 Reserve Walla Walla Valley ($125) yields a dense, dark, complex, structured wine. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley ($80) is a classic, sharply defined cabernet with herbal and minty notes in a polished frame. The 2006 Merlot Columbia Valley ($65) is no ordinary merlot. This one is concentrated with pure, fresh fruit, toasty oak and floral notes. The wines may prove hard to find but they are worth the effort.

For a little variety, look to Parducci, the oldest winery in Mendocino that today is owned by Paul Dolan (formerly of Fetzer). The 2005 "True Grit" petite sirah ($30) is a tribute to the determination of the immigrant farmers who first planted the vineyards. Fresh fruit with mineral hints and powerful tannins make for a wine that is delicious now but should drink well for years.

Chardonnay drinkers should look to Monterey, Calif.-based Pessagno Winery, which specializes in pinot noir and chardonnay from the region's best vineyards. I recommended some of the pinot noir choices in a previous column, and these chardonnays are great complements. The 2005 "Intrinity" Santa Lucia Highlands ($45) is essentially a reserve with lavish oak and luscious tropical fruit held together with fine acidity. The 2006 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard ($32) offers seductive lemon, apple and caramel.

You also should consider Chablis. The wines of this region at the northernmost end of Burgundy are 100 percent chardonnay. The cool climate and high-mineral-content soils (clay and limestone from fossilized oyster shells) produce a unique result that is the reference point for a style of chardonnay with highly focused acidity, little or no oak, and qualities that have been described using words like chalk, stone, mineral, green, steely, and flinty. While such qualities might surprise some, these wines truly reflect their origins.

Although the best-quality wines are not inexpensive, they are much less so than top Burgundies and priced on a par with California's best. The seven highest-quality vineyards are classified as Grand Cru. The next level, Premier Cru, is more plentiful and often very nearly as good, especially from a top producer like Domaine William Fevre. I loved three of Fevre's Premier Cru wines. They all offer pure citrus fruit, that characteristic chalk, and a judicious use of oak. The 2005 "Vaillons" ($40) adds an intriguing savory note. The 2006 "Montmains" ($45) shows more peach and tangerine fruit. The 2006 "Fourchame" Premier Cru ($55) is the most complex and minerally.